Hollyford Adventure -Part 2 (See Bulletin published 7 February for part 1 by Paul Giles.)
Day 3 of our Adventure started with an early morning walk from Pyke Lodge to the glistening Lake Alabaster, crossing, en route, Pyke River Bridge the longest swing bridge in Fiordland (almost 100 metres of swaying wire and wood!)
This “side trip” gave us a good appetite for the absolutely decadent sponge cake which was awaiting us when we returned to the Lodge, ready for the first helicopter ride of our Adventure. This was totally unscheduled, as it was impossible for the jet boat, which was to have taken us to the start of the day’s walk, to reach us due to the very low water level in the Hollyford river. We were, therefore, to be taken to “meet” the jet boat where the river joined Lake McKerrow. We did not complain!
The organisation was superb, as it was for the entire experience. (organised by Ngai Tahu Tourism) The helicopter was to make 3 trips and we were not only assigned which flight each would take, but also whether we were to be a front or back seat passenger! The 6 lightest in the group had the privilege of a front seat (great for photography!)
Our flights took us down the Hollyford River to Lake McKerrow and there we boarded our jet boat. All smiles, with our 14 members, plus 2 guides, eagerly anticipating skimming across the lake. BUT, just as the boat was about to get up sufficient speed to plane across the glistening water, we observed and heard, a flashing red light, accompanied by a warning sound!
Our enormously efficient and knowledgeable guide, Brad, made the decision that we would return to our boarding spot and he would call back the ‘Chopper’. During the wait time, we had the chance to appreciate the snow capped Darran Range to one side of us and the Skippers range to the other and also the Alpine fault, which passes through both ranges, clearly visible.The helicopter soon arrived back (the pilot said that he was just preparing lunch when he received the message to return to our aid once more!) This time we flew almost the length of the lake, noting the very difficult “Demon Trail” along the right side and then almost directly over Jamestown, the ill-conceived and ill-fated settlement which, in 1870 was planned to be a great port.
Our walk from our landing place was initially along the side of the lake and then into ancient podocarp forest, the lush ferns, mosses, lichens and vines all indicative of the very high rainfall in this area. Suddenly, we came into a clearing and could hardly believe our eyes as a semi-permanent hut came into view. We were the given the usual clear directions as to the inevitable long drop loo and hand sanitizer and then within just a few moments we were invited inside to partake of a very appetizing and delicious lunch (which had been delivered by the Martins Bay Lodge) Cordon bleu lunch in the middle of the forest! I love this “Glamping”!
We completed the day’s 15km walk in the afternoon learning something of the human history of the Hollyford valley as we visited several remnants of European dwellings, most of which would have been built with such hope, so many of them ending in disappointment, even tragedies. These families, often with many children, lived through enormous hardship, typified by the story of Margaret McKenzie giving birth, alone, on a bed surrounded by rising flood water.
We eventually reached the very well equipped St Martins Bay Lodge. The dining room and lounge room were delightful and many of us enjoyed browsing in the library of books before it was time for a glass of wine and a beautiful platter of hors d’oeuvres, followed by a 3 course meal which would have compared very favourably with any Downtown restaurant in Wellington.
Day 4 was centred on St Martins Bay Spit – a famous landmark separating the Tasman Sea from the Hollyford valley. We heard stories of Chief Tutoko and his people controlling access into and out of the highly valued Greenstone gathering areas. A jet boat (with engine running very smoothly!) took us from the Lodge, across the river to the start of the walk.
We enjoyed wandering among the sand dunes and learning of the plant life in this area, especially the native Pikao (Pingao) Sedge – far more efficient at stabilising the sand than the non-native Marran grass.
This was just a 5km walk and it was soon time to return to the Lodge for another great lunch (One certainly doesn’t lose weight on this walk!)
All too soon, our Lodge hosts were bidding us farewell as we boarded our helicopters for our flight along the rugged coastline and into Milford Sound (This flight was scheduled!) It was sad to see helicopters, in Milford, lined up with no business and very few visitors around.
Our return shuttle soon arrived and we all enjoyed the drive back to Te Anau, through the Homer Tunnel and more magnificent scenery. Plenty of time to contemplate, and re-live, some of the great experiences of last four days.
Our Eastern Hutt Rotarians enjoying this great adventure were (from left):
Brian Klee, John Cole, Tony & Jenny Cornelius, Mike Fackney, Paul & Christine Giles, Jaye Howey